Travel to Canada For most international visitors to Canada, passports are now required. U.S. citizens are advised to apply for passports as soon as possible and to be aware of possible processing delays. Consult the State Department for the latest document information. See: http://travel.state.gov/travel/cbpmc/cbpmc_2223.html Money Upon arrival, you will need to get some Canadian money, pronto. Currently $1 CDN equals about $1 US (as of January 2008). The Canadian dollar coin is the “Loony,” the $2 coin is the “Two-ny.” You can generally find ATMs that will work with most major bank networks once you get to Canada. There are several ATMs at the Calgary, AB airport. Credit cards work well almost everywhere in Canada although credit card companies may decline transactions if, as we inadvertently did, you create a “suspicious pattern” of transactions. (Call them and they will turn the money back on!) Bring a second credit card as a backup and let your card companies know in advance that you will be using your credit cards in Canada. Getting Around You will probably be picking up a rental car at the Calgary, AB airport. Use Orbitz, Expedia, or Sidestep to get a good rate and then see if you can beat it by a significant margin using Priceline. Most of the sites in the film are accessible without using four wheel drive vehicles, though there will be times when you may want to have one. See the site descriptions for road condition warnings and check local weather forecasts. Be advised that many of the rural township and range roads, as well as almost all of Hwy 742, are unpaved, though these tend to be generally well-maintained. Watch speed limits and traffic lights. Alberta uses cameras to silently and efficiently nab speeders and yellow-light runners. The ticket will go by mail to the rental car company which will add a fee and bill it to your credit card a month later. As a practical matter, you can’t appeal it. No fun. Reminder: All posted speeds are in km. Canada loves its roads so much that many have multiple names and numbers. Just because the sign says that you are on a road other than the one you think you are on does not mean that you are lost. For instance, a single roadway may have one or more highway numbers, a trail name, a street name and a Township or Range Road number. Got that? The good news is that in Alberta there are relatively few major roads and most run either north-south or east-west. Alberta cities often use quadrants to designate locations on a grid of streets and avenues. Thus you need to pay special attention to the letters that follow the street name. Moreover, there is a big difference between streets and avenues of the same name. Hence, 33rd Street NW can be a long way from either 33rd Street SW or 33rd Avenue NW. Be certain you know what kind of road or avenue you are looking for, what kind of road or avenue you are on, and which quadrant you are in. Please beware of wildlife road hazards, especially in the mountain park areas. Sheep, deer, bear, elk and other animals often gather roadside, especially in the early and late hours of the day. These animals may jump into the path of your car without warning. After all, they might have a low startle point. Be very careful. When in rural areas, and especially in the parks, refill your gasoline tank at 50%. You’ll be buying gas in liters (1 liter is about ¼ of a gallon). After adjusting for the currency exchange rate, gas will likely cost you more than in the U.S.A. Wipe off headlights and taillights regularly as these accumulate dust on unpaved roads. In addition to the directions available here, a good Alberta roadmap and a GPS receiver are very useful for navigation. A word about GPS: different receivers use various formats. If necessary, remember to make decimal conversions (14.20 minutes is the same as 14 minutes 12 seconds, etc.) and give your receiver time to properly establish your position. In the few cases here where it was not possible to give the exact location of a feature (for example, a mountain or an interior location), we have supplied coordinates for a viewpoint or the building entrance. Many of the pages on this website, including this one, are available in Downloads as “PDF” files which can then be read or printed offline. The print verison of this website can serve as your own personal “Baedeker” to Brokeback Mountain movie locations. Having the directions and pictures from this website readily at hand will allow you to get where you want to go and be sure you're exactly where you want to be! Lodging You should make advance lodging reservations, especially if you plan on long days, both to secure yourself a room and to get a good rate. If you plan to stay in Calgary for more than one or two nights, invest the time to study the free Priceline (priceline.com) bidding resource BiddingforTravel.com (BiddingforTravel.com). BiddingForTravel’s FAQs explain how you can use the reports of other Priceline users to save a lot of money on your Calgary (and possibly Canmore) hotels. At minimum, use Sidestep, Travelocity, and one or two other lodging search engines to get good lodging deals. A list of motels we are familiar with follows. Please let us know if you have any others to suggest. If authenticity is important to you, see the hotel information notes for Beiseker and Fort Macleod. Beiseker: As the only motel in Beisker, Motel 9 tends to be full during the summer months. Joanne will keep you on her waiting list. (You can always make a back-up reservation in Strathmore.) We have had good luck doing this. Though only the exterior was used in the making of the film, there is certainly no harm in bringing someone dear to you and reliving some of Jack and Ennis’ happiest moments inside. Highway 9 at Highway 72, next to the Esso station. (403) 947-2555. Calgary: Canmore: Fort Macleod: Red Coat Inn Motel - This, the “nicest place in town,” is where the Brokeback talent and crew stayed during the Fort Macleod shooting. With a bit of gentle encouragement, engaging owner Paul Jansen will show you his autographed photos (lobby wall) and share his production-related stories (in any of five languages!). “Of course he (Ledger) wasn’t gay,” Jansen roars, “he and Williams stayed in the same room! If only I’d saved the sheets!” By the way, we know what you are thinking and so does Paul. To all who ask, every room was Jake Gyllenhaal’s or Heath Ledger’s room! 359 Main Street, redcoatinn.com, rcimotel@telusplanet.net, (800) 423-4434. Queen’s Hotel (Cassie’s Bar) - Two of us decided the authentic Brokeback experience was worth sacrificing a few creature comforts so we chose to stay at the old Queen’s Hotel (see: Chapter 15, 01 32 15) which is the site of the “Cassie’s Bar” scene. (Silly us, we thought it was the Old Queens Hotel!) This 1903 sandstone gem witnessed Fort Macleod’s “glory years” in which the town briefly served as the commercial hub of southwest Canada. Those days are long gone, but those who are prepared to forgo virtually all modern amenities may want to spend a night here atop Cassie’s Bar. With advance notice, the hotel’s helpful owner, George Urisaki, will try to prepare a room for you. Haultain Street (2nd Avenue) at Col. Macleod Boulevard (24th Street), g_urasaki@hotmail.com, (403) 553-4343 or (403) 553-3694. Priddis: Dining Most Brokeback sites are off the beaten path and, as such, much more likely to be served by cafes and diners than upscale restaurants. The latter can be found in Calgary, Canmore, and Bragg Creek. Elsewhere, be prepared to enjoy simpler fare and absorb some local color. This list is based upon places we have tried. Please help us add to it. If you find a place that is particularly appealing, we would love to share your discovery with others. General - Every Canadian town of modest size has a Tim Horton’s donut shop and a Subway. These are always safe, but unremarkable, options. “Beans,” if you will. Beiseker: Black Diamond: Bragg Creek: Bragg Creek Steak Pit - After 47 years here, these folks know a thing or two about the restaurant business. Live music, generous portions, and comfortable surroundings make this locals’ haunt a good Bragg Creek dinner option. (50 White Avenue) Joey’s Only Seafood - A small, unpretentious restaurant, popular with locals, offering a variety of fish and seafood dishes; next door to Rock N Berry’s Bar & Grill. Both are located in the small shopping center at White and Balsam Avenues. Calgary: Prairie Ink - Convenient to the King Eddie (Electra Bar) and Canadian Legion (Childress Dance Hall interior). A pleasant spot for sandwiches, salad, or coffee located inside McNally Robinson’s, a locally-owned downtown bookstore. 120 8th Avenue SW, (403) 538-1798. Ranchman’s (Jack and Lureen’s Bar) - In addition to being a Brokeback location, the menu, food quality, and service at this “cowboy bar” impressed us. The dining area features booths and lots of rodeo cowboy scenery. A meal is a great opportunity to soak up the character of this place. 9615 Macleod Trail South, ranchmans.com. Claresholm: Cochrane: Cowley: Savory Suite Café - on Railway Avenue in the post office building. A nice, small restaurant with a good menu and wine list that you would not expect to find in rural Alberta. Our (very reliable) source exercised our imaginations by reporting that “The waiter was very friendly.” See the “Brokeback Mountain was filmed here” plaque in the dining room. Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 5:30pm to 10:00pm. To verify hours and to make reservations: (403) 627-9177. Fort Macleod: Johnny’s - During May 2004, Johnny complained that the Brokeback production was hurting his business, but these days he is more than happy to share with you his prized photos of Randy Quaid and other Brokeback celebrities. Tasty Chinese and “American” fare for lunch and dinner. (225 24th Street) Luigi’s Pizza and Steak - A friendly, casual place with excellent food. Good for groups, open late. 537 Col. Macleod Boulevard, (403) 553-4555. Rockyford: Strathmore: Little Village - A pleasant midscale restaurant with a varied menu and western decor. 960 Westridge Boulevard. Bars Like their patrons, Calgary’s gay bars tend to come and go. If you find something here that requires updating, please let us know. Thanks! For other up-to-date entertainment options see gaycalgary.com. Calgary: Calgary Eagle - Near the King Eddie (Electra Bar) and Canadian Legion (Childress Dance Hall interior), friendly, leather not required except on Friday and Saturday nights. 424A 8th Avenue SE. Money Pennies Eatery & Bar - Friendly, G&L, offers good, simple food. 1742 10 Avenue SW, money-pennies.com. The Twisted Element - Scenic, young crowd. 1006 11th Avenue SW. Communication Check with your mobile phone provider before you go to Canada. Even if your phone works in Canada, many of the features you depend upon (web access, text messaging, etc.) may not. You may want to sign up for a discount roaming plan that will save you money while there. If you have trouble reaching a U.S. number on a cellphone in Canada, try dialing “1” before the area code. Hiking Astoundingly, almost all of the Brokeback sites are very easy to access. This is not a coincidence. The vast entourage of trucks, cranes, and crews that is required for location shoots is known in the movie business as “the circus.” For practical reasons, the producers sought locations which were accessible by truck. There are two exceptions: Moose Mountain (the High Ridge and the “I Ain’t Queer” Hillside) and Canyon Creek (Campsite #1 and the Creek Crossing). Each of these makes a lovely half-day excursion. These climbs are for intermediate hikers. Wear hiking
boots and socks. Bring ample water, a snack, and
protective gear. Never leave valuables in a car parked at
trailheads. Use caution; bear activity is common in these
areas, and in all mountain locations. Do not hike alone.
Always consult park wardens and take appropriate
precautions. See: http://www.srd.gov.ab.ca/fw/bears/safety.html Moose Mountain Hike: This is a 14 km (9 mile) round trip hike. Take Highway 66 west from Bragg Creek to the “Kananaskis Country” sign and Information Center, and continue (west) 8.5 km to Moose Mountain Road. Turn right (north) onto Moose Mountain Road and follow it 7.0 km to the well-marked trailhead. The trail begins in the trees at the green vehicle barrier, located on the south side of the parking area. The Moose Mountain summit is 7.1 km from the parking area and trailhead, gaining 477 m (1,150') in elevation. The Brokeback sites are all in the meadows area which is just above the tree line. (Note: Moose Mountain Road is unmarked; it is just west of the “Paddy’s Flat” sign on Hwy 66.) Mornings generally provide the most reliable weather
conditions. Allowing time to explore filming locations,
budget a total of 4 to 5 hours for a rewarding hike to
and from the vast Moose Mountain meadows, where several
sheep herding scenes were filmed. See: http://www.braggcreek.ca/kananaskis/trails/moosemtn.htm http://www.braggcreek.ca/kananaskis/trails/moose_prairie.htm http://www.braggcreek.ca/kananaskis/outdoor.htm The hike to the meadows is a moderately strenuous ascent. Though no filming took place above the meadows, the adventurous may wish to keep climbing to the summit using a series of switchbacks leading to a fire lookout station. Budget approximately 50 minutes for the final ascent, along slippery shale surfaces. Canyon Creek Hike: This is a 12 km (7.5 mile) round trip hike on a fairly level grade gravel road. Allow 3-4 hours. Take Highway 66 west from Bragg Creek to the “Kananaskis Country” sign and Information Center, and continue (west) 10.5 km to Canyon Creek Road. Turn right (north) onto Canyon Creek Road and go 0.8 km to the parking area on the right. Walk north past the locked gate beyond the parking area, and follow the well-maintained gravel road 3.0 km (north) to the bridge, then past two gas metering stations. After you pass four concrete barriers to the left side of the road (these mark the Sheep Procession vista) you will approach the Campsite #1 area. To get to Campsite #1, look for a road which intersects Canyon Creek Road to the right and a culvert under Canyon Creek Road. As you face the left side of Canyon Creek Road with both the culvert and the intersection to your right, look to your left for an overgrown path blocked by large stones. (For reference, this location is 5.02 km north of the gate and is 50d 54m 7.08s, -114d 47m 43.44s.) Proceed 200', turn right at the gravel path, go 200' and turn left. The site is on the creek bank. You will see the circle of campfire stones. The Creek Crossing site is approximately 1 km further,
at the end of Canyon Creek Road. Go to the sour gas plant
and containment basin at the end of the road. Go to the
left of the concrete barriers for approximately 1/3 of
the way down the left side; turn left onto a path that
will lead to the creek bed. The site is on your left. Camping We originally were confident that we could write with some authority on this subject but once Amber Boice explained to us the difference between “camping” and “camp,” we turned the whole thing over to her. Waking up among the mountains and falling asleep under the stars will create an unforgettable experience for you while visiting the filming sites for Brokeback Mountain. There are numerous campgrounds in the Kananaskis area. In addition to being able to sleep under the same stars as Jack and Ennis, you’ll save yourself quite a bit of money. You’ll find that most campgrounds charge around $20 CDN a night for a site without electricity; kananaskiscamping.com is an excellent source for Kananaskis Country campground information. Bow Valley Campground (bowvalleycampgrounds.com) proved to be an excellent central location for my trip, being just 25 minutes from Canmore, 45 minutes from Calgary, 30 minutes from Highway 66 and just minutes away from Highway 40. There is excellent tree cover, a camp store and shower/flush toilets on site. If you enjoy tent camping, there are a few basics you’ll need to remember. First, Kananaskis Country is bear country! You will need to store food in your vehicle at ALL times. Do not leave food unattended at the campsite, even during the day, and remember to dump garbage every night. Second, make sure you are prepared for rain. Rainflies are a must and it is an excellent idea to bring an extra tarp to cover your tent. While it does not rain every day, it usually looks like it could. Third, be sure to have a good supply of Loonies, the Canadian $1 coin. All showers in Kananaskis Country charge $2 for 5 minutes of shower time and accept only $1 coins. While in the Kananaskis area, you’ll notice a large number of rented RVs. If tent camping isn’t quite your style, visit the following websites to check out RV rentals: canadream.com, cruiseamerica.com. Remember, however, that a few of the film locations are on unpaved roads and not well suited for RV access. If you like camping, you’ll LOVE camping in Kananaskis Country; there is nothing else like it. Other Precautions Should you find yourself inside of old buildings, be especially careful. Floorboards may be weak, missing, or loose. Railings may be missing or insecure. You will need a flashlight. Of course, always secure permission of owners before entering private property. Leave property as you find it. Please be especially respectful of Native reservation lands and the long-suffering people who inhabit them. Several Brokeback sites are located in bars and taverns. Obtain permission of patrons before taking bar photographs. Don’t Forget If we have any travel expertise at all, it is in the area of forgetting things. Here is a short list of things often forgotten that may be useful to Brokeback travelers: Sunglasses, Neosporin, lip balm, Q-tips, Post-its, a hat, medicines, water bottles, address book, chargers for cameras and cellphones, extra batteries and memory cards. We found it very nice to have our Brokeback Mountain DVD and a portable DVD player on hand for on-site comparisons to the film. Above All This site was assembled by volunteers who feel strongly that Brokeback Mountain is an important film which has a deep and unique power to touch lives and improve understanding. We urge you to absorb as much of the Brokeback travel experience as you possibly can and to share it with those around you. Have a great trip! Feedback, Please! No guide is perfect. We have undoubtedly made mistakes and need your help in correcting them. Please let us know which locations you found and if there were any sites you looked for but did not find. If you encounter problems with the directions or the information contained here, we would be grateful for a chance to correct our mistakes. Moreover, if you know of a way to make this resource more useful or have other suggestions, please email and let us know! |
Revised 22 February 2008